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🌍 International 3/6/2008 – 3/15/2008

Buenos Aires, Argentina

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The courtyard below our Buenos Aires balcony
The courtyard below our Buenos Aires balcony
17places
Michael, Kathywho went

Firsts: first time in Argentina

Day by day

Getting thereDay 1Thursday, March 6, 2008

Étoile Hotel

  • McGhee Tyson, Knoxville (TYS) · United States
  • Étoile Hotel, Buenos Aires · Argentina

TYS → Étoile Hotel

Kathy and I flew from Knoxville to Buenos Aires, landing in the morning. We made our way to the Étoile Hotel in Recoleta and checked in before noon, on a tree-lined street a few blocks off the main road.

Landing in Buenos Aires and walking into the Étoile Hotel
Landing in Buenos Aires and walking into the Étoile Hotel

Our room looked out over a row of apartment buildings, with a garden courtyard below the balcony. We unpacked and looked out at the neighborhood for a while before heading out again.

In the early afternoon we walked to a small park near the hotel, closed in by an iron fence. A huge old tree stood inside it, low and gnarled, with a stone statue nearby. A street musician had set up along the fence, playing guitar with his case open on the sidewalk beside him.

We kept the first day close to the hotel, getting a feel for the neighborhood before the real sightseeing started.

The tree-lined street outside our hotel in Recoleta
The tree-lined street outside our hotel in Recoleta
Our room key at the Étoile Hotel
Our room key at the Étoile Hotel
Our room at the Étoile Hotel
Our room at the Étoile Hotel
Rooftops and balconies seen from our hotel window
Rooftops and balconies seen from our hotel window
The garden courtyard below our balcony
The garden courtyard below our balcony
A huge old tree in the park near our hotel
A huge old tree in the park near our hotel
A stone statue in the park by our hotel
A stone statue in the park by our hotel
A street musician playing guitar along the fence
A street musician playing guitar along the fence

Day 2Friday, March 7, 2008

Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada · Círculo Militar

Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires

Casa Rosada, the presidential palace on Plaza de Mayo
Casa Rosada, the presidential palace on Plaza de Mayo

We spent the day on foot in the center of Buenos Aires, starting at Plaza de Mayo. The Casa Rosada sits at one end of the square, its pink walls facing the open plaza and the old Cabildo. A group had gathered along one side of the square with hand-lettered banners, part of some kind of demonstration; we kept to the rest of the plaza and let them be.

A church tower rising over Plaza de Mayo
A church tower rising over Plaza de Mayo
Casa Rosada, with a demonstration's banners along the square
Casa Rosada, with a demonstration's banners along the square
Plaza de Mayo, with the old Cabildo behind
Plaza de Mayo, with the old Cabildo behind
A busy downtown corner on our walk toward Retiro
A busy downtown corner on our walk toward Retiro
The monument in Plaza de Mayo on our day in Buenos Aires
The monument in Plaza de Mayo on our day in Buenos Aires
A grand columned building on Plaza de Mayo
A grand columned building on Plaza de Mayo
Busy streets near the plaza in Buenos Aires
Busy streets near the plaza in Buenos Aires

Círculo Militar, Buenos Aires

One of the busy shopping streets downtown
One of the busy shopping streets downtown

From there we walked toward Retiro, cutting through one of the busy shopping streets downtown, the sidewalks full of people on their way somewhere. The walk turned quieter as we came into a stretch of tree-lined park paths, past a monument set back among the trees, and on to the Círculo Militar, where an ornate iron gate reads CIRCULO MILITAR over the entrance.

The tree-lined park path on our walk to Retiro
The tree-lined park path on our walk to Retiro
A monument set back among the trees
A monument set back among the trees
The ornate gate at Círculo Militar
The ornate gate at Círculo Militar

🎭 Live music show, Buenos Aires

In the evening we found a small club with live music, a trio on guitar, upright bass and drums, playing in a room barely bigger than the band and the tables in front of it. We sat close to the stage and stayed for the set before heading back to the hotel.

A trio on guitar, bass and drums at the club we found
A trio on guitar, bass and drums at the club we found

Day 3Saturday, March 8, 2008

Recoleta Cemetery · Obelisco · Caminito

Tango danced right on the street in La Boca
Tango danced right on the street in La Boca

We started early with the sun barely up outside the Étoile Hotel, then spent the morning around the neighborhood before heading out for the day. From the apartment I could look down over the courtyard and the rooftops and balconies of the buildings around us.

An old rubber tree with roots spread behind an iron fence
An old rubber tree with roots spread behind an iron fence

Walking toward Recoleta we passed a red phone booth and an old rubber tree with roots spreading out behind an iron fence. Recoleta Cemetery was next, narrow lanes lined with ornate mausoleums and statues, one topped by a carved angel. Kathy and I walked through together, working out which markers belonged to which families.

The Obelisco rising over its plaza
The Obelisco rising over its plaza

From there we went to the Obelisco, the tall white monument in the middle of the wide avenue, with a busy shopping street and billboards all around it.

The painted houses along the Caminito
The painted houses along the Caminito

We finished the afternoon at Caminito in La Boca, walking past the brightly painted houses stacked in blue, yellow and pink along the cobblestone street. A couple was dancing tango right on the street for the passersby, and Kathy stopped to look through a street vendor's stall. We saw an old blue car parked under a bridge on the way out.

Narrow lanes of mausoleums in Recoleta Cemetery
Narrow lanes of mausoleums in Recoleta Cemetery

The day took in Recoleta Cemetery, Obelisco and Caminito, and it ended with coffee at a cafe before we headed back.

The Étoile Hotel just after sunrise
The Étoile Hotel just after sunrise
Our guide among the mausoleums at Recoleta
Our guide among the mausoleums at Recoleta
A carved angel watching over Recoleta
A carved angel watching over Recoleta
A red English phone booth in Buenos Aires
A red English phone booth in Buenos Aires
The elaborate mausoleums of Recoleta Cemetery
The elaborate mausoleums of Recoleta Cemetery
The shopping street and billboards around the Obelisco
The shopping street and billboards around the Obelisco
The Obelisco marking the heart of Buenos Aires
The Obelisco marking the heart of Buenos Aires
Pastel houses stacked along the Caminito
Pastel houses stacked along the Caminito
Browsing a street vendor's stall in La Boca
Browsing a street vendor's stall in La Boca
An old blue car parked under the bridge in La Boca
An old blue car parked under the bridge in La Boca
Coffee before we headed back for the day
Coffee before we headed back for the day
The colorful houses of Caminito
The colorful houses of Caminito
Street art along the Caminito walk
Street art along the Caminito walk
Riding through the streets of Buenos AiresWatch on YouTube ↗

Day 4Sunday, March 9, 2008

Buenos Aires · La Bombonera

  • Boca Juniors match at La Bombonera — Identified from photographs, no booking document
Bright red flowers in the Étoile lobby
Bright red flowers in the Étoile lobby

We started early with a walk near the hotel, past bright red and yellow flowers in the lobby and out into a small park with an old, thick-trunked tree and a fountain behind an iron fence. The streets filled in quickly, and by mid-morning we were working our way through a crowded street market. We stopped at a church along the way, looked at the statues set into niches on the outside, then went in and saw the altar and the pews.

Tango dancers performing in the streetWatch on YouTube ↗

La Bombonera, Buenos Aires

The stands filled in blue and gold all the way up
The stands filled in blue and gold all the way up

From there we sat down at a sidewalk cafe for a while before heading over to La Bombonera. Fans were already filing into the stadium by the time we got there. We watched Boca Juniors play at La Bombonera, looking out over the pitch as flag bearers carried flags across the grass before kickoff. The stands around us filled in all the way up, blue and gold as far as I could see.

Fans filing into La Bombonera ahead of kickoff
Fans filing into La Bombonera ahead of kickoff
Looking out over the pitch at La Bombonera
Looking out over the pitch at La Bombonera
Flag bearers crossing the grass before kickoff
Flag bearers crossing the grass before kickoff
More of the match at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The last of our La Bombonera videoWatch on YouTube ↗
La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The match still going at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The atmosphere at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
More from the stands at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
More of La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The stands at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The crowd at La Bombonera on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
Boca Juniors on the pitch on videoWatch on YouTube ↗

Buenos Aires, Argentina

That evening our group had dinner together, a big table of us from the trip. Afterward we walked along the river in the dark, still in our Boca colors from the game, with the city lights reflected on the water.

A thick-trunked tree on our morning walk
A thick-trunked tree on our morning walk
Working our way through a crowded street market
Working our way through a crowded street market
A statue set into a niche outside the church
A statue set into a niche outside the church
A mosaic tile pattern at the church
A mosaic tile pattern at the church
A restaurant stop before we headed to La Bombonera
A restaurant stop before we headed to La Bombonera
Our group dinner after the match, a big table of us
Our group dinner after the match, a big table of us
Still in our Boca colors after dark
Still in our Boca colors after dark
A walk along the river, city lights on the water
A walk along the river, city lights on the water

Day 5Monday, March 10, 2008

Buenos Aires

A painted ceiling fresco under the dome
A painted ceiling fresco under the dome

We spent the day wandering around Buenos Aires with no set plan. We stopped at an outdoor cafe, then found our way into a cathedral and looked up at a painted ceiling fresco overhead.

Later we walked past a Swatch store with its watches lined up in the window, and a fast food place called Barbacoa with a lit-up sign.

An outdoor cafe stop on a day with no set plan
An outdoor cafe stop on a day with no set plan
A Swatch store window downtown
A Swatch store window downtown
The Barbacoa sign lit up downtown
The Barbacoa sign lit up downtown
The ornate painted ceiling we found in Buenos Aires
The ornate painted ceiling we found in Buenos Aires

Day 6Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Buenos Aires

We spent part of the day driving past neighborhoods on the outskirts of Buenos Aires, catching views of the city skyline and a residential district from the road.

The city skyline from the highway on the drive out
The city skyline from the highway on the drive out
A residential district along the highway
A residential district along the highway
Talking with the team during a stop on our trip
Talking with the team during a stop on our trip

Day 7Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Toyota Argentina · Hard Rock Cafe

We left early and drove out past the edge of the city into open countryside on the way to Zárate. The highway ran through flat green fields for a long stretch, with smoke stacks marking the industrial area as we got closer.

Boarding the bus with the team
Boarding the bus with the team

Toyota Argentina, Zárate

We stopped at the Toyota plant in Zárate, where a sign at the entrance read Bienvenidos Toyota. Inside there was an ad for the new Hilux pickup.

Flat green fields on the drive to Zárate
Flat green fields on the drive to Zárate
Smoke stacks marking the industrial area near Zárate
Smoke stacks marking the industrial area near Zárate
An ad for the new Hilux at the Toyota plant
An ad for the new Hilux at the Toyota plant
The Bienvenidos Toyota sign at the plant entrance
The Bienvenidos Toyota sign at the plant entrance
Dinner with the team near the Toyota plant in Zarate
Dinner with the team near the Toyota plant in Zarate

Hard Rock Cafe, Buenos Aires

In the evening we went to the Hard Rock Cafe. Its red neon sign lit up the building after dark, with white statues on the balcony glowing green and gold under floodlights. On the sidewalk outside stood a painted cow statue covered in a red design.

Statues glowing green and gold above the Hard Rock Cafe
Statues glowing green and gold above the Hard Rock Cafe
The Hard Rock Cafe sign lit up after dark
The Hard Rock Cafe sign lit up after dark
A painted cow statue outside the Hard Rock Cafe
A painted cow statue outside the Hard Rock Cafe

Day 8Thursday, March 13, 2008

Buenos Aires

  • Tango show — Evening tango dinner show; identified from photographs, no booking document

Buenos Aires, Argentina

We spent part of the morning near a monument set among trees, an equestrian statue on top of a tall column, with the city's apartment towers rising behind it.

An equestrian statue on a column near our hotel
An equestrian statue on a column near our hotel
Walking the waterfront with the team in Buenos Aires
Walking the waterfront with the team in Buenos Aires

🎭 Tango show, Buenos Aires

A full tango danced across the stage
A full tango danced across the stage

In the evening we went to the tango show. A solo dancer opened under a single spotlight, and then a couple came out and danced a full tango together, turning and dipping across the stage while a small band played from a balcony above them. We watched from our table, the room lit mostly by candles and stage light.

The solo dancer opening the tango show
The solo dancer opening the tango show
The tango couple under a single spotlight
The tango couple under a single spotlight
The tango couple turning and dipping across the stage
The tango couple turning and dipping across the stage
Dancers at the tango show in Buenos Aires
Dancers at the tango show in Buenos Aires
The tango show on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The tango band on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
More of the tango show on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The last of the tango show on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The tango dancers on videoWatch on YouTube ↗

Day 9Friday, March 14, 2008

Buenos Aires · Monumento de los Españoles

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Dozing against the window on the long bus tour
Dozing against the window on the long bus tour

In the afternoon we boarded a bus for a guided tour through some of the Buenos Aires neighborhoods, a young guide narrating into a microphone from the front of the coach as we wound through street after street of houses, corner shops and small groceries. One of us dozed against the window for part of the long ride. We passed a butcher shop, a grocery with a bakery case in the window, a mural painted across the side of a building, and, further along, a mosque with tall minarets rising above a wall.

A corner grocery seen from the bus
A corner grocery seen from the bus
A street mural glimpsed along the route
A street mural glimpsed along the route
A butcher shop along the neighborhood tour route
A butcher shop along the neighborhood tour route
A mosque with its minarets glimpsed from the bus
A mosque with its minarets glimpsed from the bus
Our guide narrating the neighborhood tour
Our guide narrating the neighborhood tour

Monumento de los Españoles, Buenos Aires

The tour ended at the Monumento de los Españoles, a tall column topped with a group of statues, standing in a park lined with palm trees. We walked around its base, past a smaller statue nearby, before heading back to the Étoile for the night.

The ornate statue group at the top of the column
The ornate statue group at the top of the column
The Monumento de los Españoles rising above the park
The Monumento de los Españoles rising above the park
A smaller statue near the monument's base
A smaller statue near the monument's base
Palm trees lining the park around the monument
Palm trees lining the park around the monument
More of the Monumento de los Españoles on videoWatch on YouTube ↗
The Monumento de los Españoles on videoWatch on YouTube ↗

Home againDay 10Saturday, March 15, 2008

Buenos Aires · Norwich Shoes and Boots

Racks of leather jackets and bags at the market
Racks of leather jackets and bags at the market

We spent our last morning in the hotel room before packing up for the flight home.

Rows of leather shoes at the shop we found
Rows of leather shoes at the shop we found

Before checking out we walked into the city to shop for leather. We found a shop called Norwich Shoes and Boots, its shelves stacked with rows of leather shoes, and a leather goods market nearby with racks of jackets and bags. We browsed for a while, chose a few pairs of shoes, and stopped at the counter to pay.

In the afternoon we walked through a park where a street performer stood in a silver and red robot costume, posing while people walked past.

Our last morning at the Étoile before packing up
Our last morning at the Étoile before packing up

Late in the afternoon we made our way to Ezeiza International Airport to check in for our flight. We flew from Buenos Aires to Knoxville that evening.

A street performer in the park
A street performer in the park
A silver and red robot costume in the park
A silver and red robot costume in the park
A costumed street performer near the plaza
A costumed street performer near the plaza
Choosing a few pairs of shoes before we paid
Choosing a few pairs of shoes before we paid
The Norwich Shoes and Boots sign
The Norwich Shoes and Boots sign
Paying at the counter for our leather shoes
Paying at the counter for our leather shoes
The Norwich outlet storefront
The Norwich outlet storefront
Paying at the shoe shop in Buenos Aires
Paying at the shoe shop in Buenos Aires
Checking in at Ezeiza for our flight home
Checking in at Ezeiza for our flight home

More photos